Snow Falling on Cedars
Letters from Japan, February 2025: winter trip to Kanazawa, Shirakawa-go and Takayama.
Good afternoon,
This is likely the twentieth sunny day in a row in Tokyo, making this winter one of the most delightful yet—despite the bitter cold and disorienting wind. Plum blossoms have already arrived, reminding me to mention not just November, but also February as one of the best months to visit Japan. Fewer crowds, much more reasonable accommodation rates, and blossoms as vibrant as Sakura—if you don’t mind a bit of cold.
While snow is a rare event in Tokyo (Kyoto seems much luckier in that regard), February is also, for Honshu, the most reliable month for snowfall, a trustworthy companion that elevates the charm of not only nature but also urbanscapes—especially in the evening, when paired with Japan’s captivating night lights.
And over the past few months, aside from a brief work trip to Laos—which was as lovely as ever and even more festive this time with street celebrations for the Chinese New Year—and being mentally transported into Thailand’s addictive aura through the third season of The White Lotus, my travels mainly focused on chasing the snow, taking me through Japan’s snow-covered forests, some dominated by cedars, the country’s national tree —giving me an excuse to borrow the title of this post from the sad but gorgeously shot 1999 film, Snow Falling on Cedars.
First came a week-long trip to the heart of Hokkaido in late December, where I experienced snow and ice in almost every possible form—frozen waterfalls, sparkly decorations on bare trees, blanketing endless farmlands, and even, with the help of an active volcano, creating enigmatically hellish white landscapes.
Then, in February, during a delightful ten-day visit from my mother, we spent four days along Japan’s New Golden Route (promoted as an alternative to the original Golden Route covering Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto) visiting Kanazawa, Shirakawa-go, and Takayama—where the snow seemed more abundant than even in Hokkaido (probably not, but it certainly felt like it).
While planning my mother’s visit, I aimed to balance relaxing time in Tokyo with a side trip to a less mainstream city (since she had already visited Osaka and Kyoto), as well as a nature-focused ryokan and onsen experience, ideally in a snowy region, unique to Japan.
After considering several options, including many in Hokkaido and Tohoku, the trio of Kanazawa, Shirakawa-go, and Takayama, all within close proximity of each other, emerged as the most reliable choice.
Kanazawa—one of Japan’s most elegant cities, less than a 2.5-hour Shinkansen ride from Tokyo—would check the box for a slightly off-the-mainstream city. Shirakawa-go, a picturesque mountain village nestled in the Japanese Alps, would add a touch of nature, while Takayama would deliver the classic ryokan and onsen experience. And all three, already blanketed in snow that grew thicker by the day with continuous snowfall, certainly did not disappoint.
Honestly, with Japan’s mountainous terrain, it’s hard to find a destination north of Tokyo that disappoints in winter—especially if you’re after snowy landscapes, relaxed indoor time (onsen helps), and atmospheric dining.
These praising words—quite big coming from someone who once, without hesitation or regret, titled a monthly letter The Very Questionable Beauty of Japan—bring us to this month’s topic. While Kanazawa ended up being the winner in our case, this letter isn’t just about Kanazawa, but also the other alternatives I considered while planning the perfect three-day cozy winter trip with my mother—one that blends slightly lesser-known city escapes that don’t feel too obscure with uniquely Japanese nature experiences.
Kanazawa, Shirakawa-go and Takayama
Kanazawa is, in my view and that of many others, one of Japan's most rewarding city breaks for both visitors and locals, especially if you’ve already explored the usual destinations like Tokyo and Kyoto. Often referred to—somewhat reductively—as Little Kyoto due to its geisha district reminiscent of Gion, the city offers a surprising number of attractions for its modest size.
Home to Kenroku-en—officially recognized as one of Japan's three most beautiful gardens—the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, featuring works by James Turrell and Anish Kapoor in its permanent collection, the well-preserved geisha district of Higashi Chaya, an architecturally impressive museum dedicated to Kanazawa-born Buddhist philosopher D.T. Suzuki, historic samurai houses, a vibrant fish market, and highly praised kaiseki cuisine, Kanazawa once again convinced me that it can do no wrong.
I first visited Kanazawa in autumn, and it was, both with the autumn colors and abundance of sights, so unexpectedly rewarding that a planned three-night stay turned into ten. This recent trip, however, showed me that the city is just as wonderful in winter. Its compact size makes for a relaxed visit, offering enough sights to fill a three-day trip while still leaving plenty of time—and excellent options—for wining and dining. My favorite this time was a set dinner at Il Mare, serving a fusion of Italian and Japanese cuisine in a counter-style setting with an impossibly cozy atmosphere, made even better by the large windows and the constant snowfall outside.1
Another advantage of Kanazawa is its proximity to two of Japan’s most popular winter destinations, which, we, as already mentioned, also included in our itinerary—Shirakawa-go for a day trip and Takayama for an overnight stay. While Shirakawa-go offers the charm of a traditional mountain village, Takayama, though much larger, features an equally picturesque historical town atmosphere, both set against the stunning backdrop of the Hida Mountains.
Shirakawa-go is famous for its snow-covered gassho-style houses that attract thousands of daily visitors during the January and February weekends thanks to the illumination event that lights the houses and their thatched roofs. It is undeniably a picturesque village, though it can sometimes feel a little too pretty, a little Disneylandish, leaving you with the impression of visiting an open-air museum rather than an actual village.
I’ve visited Shirakawa-go many times, including during one of the illumination event dates (which was, of course, visually stunning but mentally a little challenging due to the crowds), and the experience can be hit or miss. During a road trip with a friend in early March a few years ago, I remember feeling very underwhelmed by the early spring landscape—neither snow-covered nor lush—so much so that I deliberately left it out when putting together a post on recommended trips from Tokyo or Kyoto. But this time, perhaps due to low expectations—or more likely, the heavy snow concealing its flaws—the village proved once again that it remains one of Japan’s most visually captivating winter destinations, as long as you don’t mind the crowds and navigating through or next to deep snow.
Our next stop was Takayama2 that is renowned for its skilled carpenters and well-preserved old town. The city offers numerous eateries, mostly specializing in Hida beef, along with a range of accommodations, from mountain lodges to high-end ryokans with onsen. The main reason for our visit was for my mother to experience an authentic winter stay in a Japanese ryokan, and Hidatei Hanaougi proved to be an ideal choice.
Picking the right onsen/ryokan experience in Japan can be a bit tricky. Some places focus too much on functionality, missing the visual charm expected from a Japanese onsen stay, while others feel overly polished and modern, making you wish for a bit of that retro touch Japan is known for. I think Hanaougi has the perfect balance—combining a nostalgic feel, comfort, and subtle luxury hidden beneath the Japanese simplicity, all within a well-functioning facility.3
On a previous visit to Takayama, I stayed at Auberge Hida no Mori, which I, although offering a very different experience, can also confidently recommend if you are looking for a mountain lodge experience.
Nyuto Onsen, Kakunodate and Lake Tazawa in Akita
After using countless terms of endearment for various locations in this newsletter, I'm not sure I have any credibility left to declare a favorite. But, with your assumed permission, I'll highlight Nyuto Onsen, tucked into the mountains of Akita in Tohoku, as the place that I always remember for giving me the most shockingly unforgettable winter sceneries I’ve ever experienced.
Dating back to the 17th century as a healing retreat for feudal lords, Nyuto Onsen, home to seven different onsen accommodations, stands out compared to most other onsen villages, where facilities are clustered together, creating more of a resort town feel.
In Nyuto, each facility is spread throughout the dense forests of Akita, enjoying its own secluded setting, drawing water from a different source, and offering a unique scenery and experience. While I think the Karakonoyu Bath in Ganiba Onsen, featured in the first photo above, is the most visually appealing, another rightfully popular facility in the village is Tsurunoyu, reportedly the oldest, known for its milky blue waters.
Due to its incredibly high popularity among domestic travelers, Nyuto is one of the most challenging onsen villages to secure accommodation in unless booked months—or even a year—in advance. But even if you can't find a room, it’s still worth visiting as a day trip, as each facility also welcomes day visitors.
A day trip to Nyuto Onsen can be paired with a few nights in the nearby samurai town of Kakunodate (directly accessible by Shinkansen), which features samurai and merchant districts in a captivating setting, along with some unexpectedly quirky restaurants.
Highly popular during Sakura season, with hundreds of cherry trees lining its samurai district, the town is also praised for showcasing some of Japan’s finest examples of samurai architecture. I can't comment on the Sakura atmosphere, as I rarely travel outside Tokyo during that season, but I enjoyed both my autumn and winter visits. You can also add a visit to Lake Tazawa, Japan’s deepest lake at 423 meters, best experienced in winter by snowshoeing through the surrounding hills—hopefully while the bears are asleep—with sweeping views of the lake below.
Tono Villate, Chunsenji Temple, and Geikibei George in Iwate
Since the theme is snow, the destinations in this post inevitably take us north. Another winter destination where a visually captivating and snowy experience is guaranteed is Iwate Prefecture in Tohoku—one of Japan’s most overlooked regions, known more for the tragic 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake4 than for travel.
I first visited Iwate a few years ago on a trip organized by the Japan Reconstruction Agency, which aimed to showcase the area's post-earthquake recovery while also highlighting its natural beauty and historical significance.
We traveled in mid-December when the region was already blanketed in snow. Alongside the coastal sites that stand as a testament to the resilience of the Japanese people, we also explored central Iwate, staying overnight in Tono—a village famous for its folklore and mythical creatures—visiting Chuson-ji Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and taking a boat ride through Geibikei Gorge, all within a couple of hours' drive of each other.
Since this letter is already getting a bit long, for further details, I'll simply link to a post I wrote for another publication about the Iwate trip. But before I wrap up, one more thing about Iwate: In an era where most destinations are easily accessible and endless online resources make it easier than ever to uncover hidden gems, I'm not sure the term "off-the-beaten-path" still carries much weight. But if there's one place in Japan that still fits that description, it might just be Iwate—especially in the winter.
So, that wraps up the February edition of Letters from Japan. With Sakura season approaching, I better bring some spring vibes to this newsletter in the next edition.
Before I go, a quick note for monthly and annual subscribers. In the January letter covering three islands of Kyushu, I mentioned a long weekend trip to Kyushu to visit Hirado Island and a short trip diary. However, with the sunny weather and plum blossoms, spending the long weekend (thanks to the Emperor’s Birthday) in Tokyo feels just as appealing. So, rather than a Hirado trip diary, next week’s post for paid subscribers will be a Q&A-style piece focused not on destinations but on the trip planning process for Japan—covering useful tools, transportation and accommodation booking tips, and passes, discounted train tickets, based on both my own experiences and insights from friends planning their trips from abroad.
Planning a trip to Japan can surely be an overly overwhelming experience, even for the most experienced travelers. Despite living here, I also still make mistakes and often get lost in the details. So, I’ll focus on the tools and strategies that work for me, as well as my embarrassing mistakes, which just last week cost me an additional train ticket.
Once again, thank you for being here. This newsletter has been steadily growing, which both scares me a little and fills me with immense gratitude. As always, if you have any questions about the destinations featured above, feel free to email me.
Until next time,
Burcu
In Kanazawa, we stayed at OMO5 by Hoshino Group, a choice I did not hesitate about after a great recent experience in their Asahikawa branch in Hokkaido. With its central location, relatively spacious Japanese-style rooms with a modern touch, and a lively café downstairs, we were very happy with our stay.
You can reach Shirakawa-go from Kanazawa in 1.5 hours by bus along a very scenic route. The same bus company also runs a one-hour service between Shirakawa-go and Takayama. I bought our tickets online.
This, even to me—my very honest feelings—sounds a little bit like an advertorial, but rest assured, there’s no sponsorship behind this newsletter :)
Iwate was among the most impacted prefectures of Japan by the Great East Japan Earthquake in 2011 and the subsequent tsunami. In Iwate alone, 5,140 lives were lost, and 26,079 buildings were destroyed.
Since I'm reading this in the west of Japan in a snow storm, I wish to point out that there's snow all along the Japan sea coast - or if not on the coast in the mountains just a few km inland. I'm probably biased since I live here but I think Shimane is just as pretty and undiscovered by the gaijin hordes as Iwate - I wrote this last year about my home town of Izumo
https://ombreolivier.substack.com/p/enmusubi-life?r=7yrqz
Japanese tours usually combine the Chusonji with the nearby Motsuji. I imagine that would also be very beautiful in the snow. I'll be going to Iwate this summer, flying to Hanamaki and we will definitely be visiting Kanegasaki which I didn't know about until this post.
I am going to Kanazawa at the beginning of April. I look forward to visiting!